2/..Samson 50ft ketch.

 Hi, We just purchased a ferro-cement boat. It is a Samson design 50ft ketch built by Delta T in 1976. Beyond that we have very little information. The boat is a project, requiring lots of cosmetic and maintenance fixes. I found your web site and have some questions. First I'd like to find plans or drawings of the boat. I've been looking for Samson's book on ferro boats, but haven't been able to find a copy. I've heard that ferro boats should not be dry docked for any length of time. Is this true? We'd like to take it out of the water and work on it at our house, but do not want to compromise the hull integrity. Also can I poke holes in the hull? Specifically in the deck for another hatch in to the cabin, and in the side for some additional port holes. I'd appreciate any help you can give me. thanks

Betsey Niece...bniece@earthlink.net

 Hi Betsy, Samson Boat Plans are available from Hartley & Brookes Associates at www.hartley-boats.com and I am also able to offer back-up advice with them. There is no problem in keeping a ferroboat out of the water. I have seen many that have been out for more than 10 years. You can cut in to the deck and hull of a ferroboat, but care must be taken in the size and location of the aperture. Details for cutting the hatch aperture in the deck can be found in my book 'Ferro-cement Boats'. Make the hatch surround exactly to the shape of the deck curvature, and make a sandwich of wood both under and on the deck bolted together. The portlights are a slightly different project for cutting and require a different process (also described in my book). The same method can be used for screw in bronze skin fittings, only because of the effects of electrolysis makesure the hole is much bigger and the fitting is set completeley in the epoxy filler. If it is greased properly you will be able to unscrew it and finish off the aperture to a good level. Seal portlights and skin-fittings with a non hardening sealer when finally fitted. Silicon sealer is not good in this application, a non-hardening mastic is far superior. The same goes for the surface of the wooden hatch surround which is sealed against the deck. Regards

Colin Brookes...colb@xtra.co.nz

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