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Hi Barry, there are a number of ways of setting
a framework up to build a ferroboat and all have their dis/advantages.
Scaffolding is relatively cheap (if you actually manage to dispose
of it after). However constant attention on a daily basis is
required to ensure the hull maintains it's shape up to plastering.
The system shown on Hartley plans eliminates movement and inaccuracies,
and in this respect is best for the novice boatbuilder. It also
acts as a covered building in which to build the boat in (corrugated-iron
roof and plastic sheeting nailed to sides). It is of course initally
expensive but not in the long run. The method I have always used
is utilising 2" and 1.5" angle iron. It is the cheapest
and can be cut and used as part of the ballast afterwards. Like
scaffolding though, it is not easily usable for making an enclosure
around the boat.The angle-iron method...using 2" x 1/4"
weld together 20ft lengths straight, 8ft longer than the length
of boat you are building(you will need 4ft each end to work on
the hull). Drill 5/8" holes along it on the horizontal part
at exactly the frame spacings and stem and stern. Drill a hole
at each end 1" in on the vertical side. The rest of the
structure uses 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/16" angle. Weld
up an 'A Frame', tower at each end so that the 2" cross-bar
can be strung between them at a height allowing 2ft under the
keel and 2ft above the highest point of the hull (usually the
stem). Position between the towers 3 or 4 'A's depending on boat
length. Hang frames. Weld in stem and keel bars, sternpost/transom.
Block and keel plank up to take weight. Apply stringers and any
diags. Set-up three 'goal-posts'to keep hull upright, and remove
'A's, so that armature can be meshed and plastered. As with scaffolding,
a constant eye must be kept for movement.Regards
Colin Brookes...colb@xtra.co.nz |
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