Hi everyone. I've been thinking about the building frame (amongst almost everything else)and I was wondering if anyone had used (or knew anyone who had used) a frame of scaffold. I can think of some advantages, it's easier to build, can be purchased cheaply second hand, can be sold after construction and is very strong. Does anyone know of any disadvantages? Is it just a bad idea? Colin, can you help again please? On another note, and returning to a previously covered subject, the use of lead as ballast. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel here, but is it plausible to mould lead at the bottom of the keel to form a sort of keel 'shoe' prior to plastering. I'm only asking due to my belief that it's a good thing to get weight low down in the boat. It occurs to me that a proportion of the ballast might be formed in this way. Am I talking tosh, another bad idea? The rest of the ballast would be via the method previously described.
Hi Barry, there are a number of ways of setting a framework up to build a ferroboat and all have their dis/advantages. Scaffolding is relatively cheap (if you actually manage to dispose of it after). However constant attention on a daily basis is required to ensure the hull maintains it's shape up to plastering. The system shown on Hartley plans eliminates movement and inaccuracies, and in this respect is best for the novice boatbuilder. It also acts as a covered building in which to build the boat in (corrugated-iron roof and plastic sheeting nailed to sides). It is of course initally expensive but not in the long run. The method I have always used is utilising 2" and 1.5" angle iron. It is the cheapest and can be cut and used as part of the ballast afterwards. Like scaffolding though, it is not easily usable for making an enclosure around the boat.The angle-iron method...using 2" x 1/4" weld together 20ft lengths straight, 8ft longer than the length of boat you are building(you will need 4ft each end to work on the hull). Drill 5/8" holes along it on the horizontal part at exactly the frame spacings and stem and stern. Drill a hole at each end 1" in on the vertical side. The rest of the structure uses 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/16" angle. Weld up an 'A Frame', tower at each end so that the 2" cross-bar can be strung between them at a height allowing 2ft under the keel and 2ft above the highest point of the hull (usually the stem). Position between the towers 3 or 4 'A's depending on boat length. Hang frames. Weld in stem and keel bars, sternpost/transom. Block and keel plank up to take weight. Apply stringers and any diags. Set-up three 'goal-posts'to keep hull upright, and remove 'A's, so that armature can be meshed and plastered. As with scaffolding, a constant eye must be kept for movement.Regards